Tucked away in the tranquil embrace of Hakone’s lush mountains, Gora Kadan has earned its reputation as one of Japan’s most iconic ryokans (traditional inns). This historic gem, part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux collection, is set on the former grounds of the Kaninnomiya imperial villa, where royalty once sought refuge. With such a rich history, we were excited to finally experience this special place firsthand—and it did not disappoint
Arriving in Hakone: Gyoza Delights
We made our way from Tokyo to Hakone in the morning, arriving just before check-in time. Our first stop? The Gyoza Center, a hidden gem just a 5-minute walk from Gora Kadan. This unpretentious local spot is a must for anyone who loves gyoza. The freshly made dumplings, crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, were perfect for a quick, satisfying lunch before setting out to explore the area.
Art Meets Nature: The Hakone Open-Air Museum
Feeling recharged, we strolled over to the Hakone Open-Air Museum. This unique museum seamlessly blends art and nature, featuring outdoor sculptures framed by vibrant trees and mountain backdrops. It was a treat to wander through installations by both Japanese and Western artists, set against the stunning natural landscape. The Picasso Pavilion, with its impressive collection of ceramics and paintings, was an unexpected highlight. We loved how interactive and immersive the exhibits were—the art truly comes to life in this open-air setting.
Checking In: The Kadan Suite
Returning to Gora Kadan, it was finally time to check in. We stayed in the Kadan Suite Asaji Rindo, which features its own open-air bath overlooking serene Japanese gardens. Traditional yet luxurious, the suite is an oasis of calm with a timeless charm that reflects the spirit of old Japan. Surrounded by meticulously cared-for gardens and views of the mountains, it felt like stepping into another world.
The attention to detail in every corner of the suite, from the soft tatami mats to the handcrafted wooden furnishings, was nothing short of magical. And that private bath? Pure bliss. There’s something about soaking in a hot onsen while taking in views of the lush gardens that melts away every bit of stress.
A Geisha Escort to Dinner: The Sushi Kadan Experience
As dinner approached, a geisha arrived to escort us to Sushi Kadan, a dining experience we had eagerly anticipated. This exclusive collaboration with Sushi Yoshitake, a celebrated Tokyo restaurant with three Michelin stars, brought together the finest seasonal ingredients prepared with age-old techniques.
For an extra touch of exclusivity, we discovered that our dinner would be a private dining experience in one of the property’s historic buildings. The sushi was nothing short of magical—crafted with the freshest seafood and vinegared rice that’s been perfected since the Edo period. The Asahi beer pairing was a revelation, even for someone who isn’t usually into beer—it was crisp, light, and the perfect complement to the sushi.
A Soak in the Onsen: Pure Relaxation
After indulging in a feast of sushi, we made our way to Gora Kadan’s natural hot springs. The ryokan boasts its own private hot spring sources, known for their mildly alkaline waters that are perfect for soothing tired muscles. The baths are separated by gender but rotate nightly, allowing guests to experience both sides during their stay.
We were lucky to have the baths mostly to ourselves, enjoying the serenity and warmth as the cool mountain air whispered through the trees. There’s something so special about immersing yourself in a steaming onsen, letting the natural mineral waters work their magic while surrounded by the tranquility of nature.
Sleeping on a Tatami Mat: An Authentic Experience
When it was finally time to rest, we returned to our suite to find a traditional tatami bed laid out for us. Initially, we were curious (and a bit skeptical) about sleeping on the floor, but it turned out to be surprisingly comfortable. Falling asleep with the gentle sounds of nature surrounding us was the perfect way to end our magical day.
COZY Tip: If you have back issues, you might want to request extra padding for your futon. But trust us, the experience is worth it!
A Memorable Breakfast and a Fond Farewell
The next morning, we were treated to an in-room breakfast. There’s something so special about enjoying a beautifully presented Japanese breakfast in the comfort of your suite while taking in the garden views. The dishes, from miso soup to freshly grilled fish, were as artfully arranged as they were delicious.
With our hearts full and minds refreshed, we were ready to embark on our next adventure: the cultural wonders of Kyoto. It was hard to say goodbye to Gora Kadan, but we left feeling rejuvenated and inspired.
Until next time, stay COZY!
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